Airbox Modification

 
The image above shows the Honda RVF 400 airbox with the foam.

 

 The image below shows the airbox without the foam to allow unrestricted airflow.

 

Aprillia RS 250 rear shock modification

Aprilia RS250 SACHS SHOCK MOD

WHICH SHOCK?


Try to get one with an adjustable ride height. Find one no later than 1998-99. Not sure myself, since I picked one up from an RS250 Cup bike.
From what I've been told, all the Cup bikes came with adjustable ride height.

Here's the earlier model RS250 shock.
This one does not have a ride height adjuster and according to RichNZ is better made and easier to rebuild than the later model.

FITTING?


Grind 1.5mm on each side of the NC30's triangle linkage where the bottom of the shock mounts since the RS's mounting linkage is narrower than the NC30s. If you have the earlier model RS shock, the top of shock needs to be shaved a bit to clear the frame.

This is what it will look like after you mod the linkage.



SPRING?
A stock RS250 spring is 325lbs. A stock NC30 is little more than double the RS spring; hence, you will need to ditch the RS’s spring. You can easily get the spring off the RS shock, but you'll need spring compressors to take the spring off the NC shock. You could also buy a new spring to suit your weight. Those who change out their spring go heavier like 850-900lbs. I always thought the stock NC30 shock was undersprung.... or maybe I am oversprung

I went with a 900lbs Ohlins spring and had the unit rebuilt and revalved.



RECHARGE?
Before you recharge, you should test fit the unit on your bike! First release the current charge by depressing the valve located on the remote reservoir (similar to a tire valve) till all the pressure is released.
Now crack the lines open just a bit so you can re-adjust them similar to how the original stock shock was mounted with the reservoir (granted your NC30 came with the remote). Do this before you recharge the shock to 180PSI!

DIRECTIONS for adjusting the ride height type shock.



Seems like the optimal height adjustment is 8mm.



Once completed it will look something like this.

Author: eddiehrcrider

To get follow-up information about this please visit: http://www.400greybike.co.uk/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=27709

 

 

 

Crash bung fitment - Non drill type

Firstly, check that you have everything in the kit…

Mine was missing the diagram…..But I managed without it!

You should have:

2 Pucks
2 Puck Mounts
1 Spacer
2 Puck Bolts, 1 long, one short
2 Bracket Bolts, with washers
2 Brackets
1 Through Bar

Next thing to do is to remove your upper, and lower fairings…

At the front of the engine, you should be able to see the oil cooler mounts, just under where the front header pipes bolt on to the engine. They are made of aluminium, and are probably covered in white oxidisation and road crud.

The threads in these need to be cleaned before you’ll be able to screw the bolts in. As Dave G has mentioned, the easiest way to do this (If you haven’t got a Metric Fine Tread Tap handy) is to cut slots in the bolts that came with the kit. This can be done with a dremmel, or, as I did, with a hacksaw.

You then need to wind the bolts in, a little at a time, and then wind them out, clean out the crud, and wind them back in again, keep repeating this until the threads are clean, and the bolts can be screwed all the way in.

Next, Insert the left hand side bracket as shown in the picture, and insert the bolt.

This is where I differ from the instructions provided from R&G. I found this easier as access to the space between the 2 brackets is limited…..

From the Right hand side of the bike, insert the long stainless steel through bar, and attach it to the left hand bracket, do this bolt up finger tight. This will hold the bar in place while you install the right hand bracket, and fairing. I found that if you install both brackets, then the bar cannot be lifted in to the correct position as there are radiators and header pipes in the way!

Then, on the right hand side of the bike, fit the brackets as detailed above.

Now fit the right hand fairing.

And screw in the puck mount, Note, the right hand side does not need the spacer, and uses the shorter bolt.

Tighten this bolt up finger tight, Next, remove the puck mount on the left hand side of the bike, The puck mount on the right hand side should now hold the through bar in position.

Install the left hand fairing

And then attach the puck mount, using the longer bolt and spacer.

The 2 puck mount bolts can now be tightening up.

All that’s left now is to finish installing the fairings, and screw in the pucks themselves, then stand back and admire your handiwork while having a beer…..!

 

The Author: Viffer106 on 400greybike where you can find follow ups to this:

http://www.400greybike.co.uk/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=42120&whichpage=1

Deristriction

Deristriction

In standard trim an NC35 is
restricted to 180 kph :-(
The restriction is controlled by a sensor in the
speedo. This can be removed fairly easily, and there is no need to spend 50 odd
quid on a "black box" :-)

• First remove the speedo assembly - two 8mm bolts, speedo cable and two
  connector blocks.
• Remove the cover from the speedo - Lots of black posidrive screws plus the
  odometer knob. This is held in place by a tiny posidrive screw in the end.
• Remove the speedo unit - undo 4 silver posidrive screws at the rear of the
  assembly.
• You should now be able to see the sensor. It is a cam shaped disc attached
  to the speedo drive, which makes contact with a metal strip (connected to one
  of the two wires that come in through the back of the speedo) at the magic 180
  kph. All you need to do is bend back the strip so it NEVER makes contact with
  the disc and voila: the bike is derestricted.

You will also see
that the two wires entering the speedo are connected together by a resistor.
This is just to tell the bikes electrics if the sensor has been disconnected,
and if it is not in the circuit causes the bike to misfire above 5500
rpm.

Disclaimer: If you knacker your speedo whilst doing this
don't blame me coz I accept no responsibility for anything at all. Also the same
applies if you get done testing that the derestriction works on public roads.

Extra Washer and Drilled Slides

Start by removing the rear seat unit by removing the 3 screws arrowed below and the same for the other side,

Once you have removed the screws take the pillion seat off and you will see that the seat has 2 plugs at the rear which push into the subframe. Lift the seat from the rear to take the plugs out of these holes. Next remove the brake lights by twisting them anti-clockwise. Once this is done the seat will slide off. You should be left like this,

Next you need to remove that tank. The tank is held in with only 1 screw, shown here,

Before you remove the vacuum and fuel line turn off the fuel tap (I’ll take it for granted you know where this is, we’ve all ran onto reserve before). These are next to remove and are found here (sorry about the picture quality). Also remove the breather line too, that goes into the wee silver thing on your tank, take out the tube.

Now remove the tank by lifting it from the rear and slide the front out. Good. Next is 2 more bodywork panels, left side and right. Depending on your fairing type wether original, fibre-glass carbon-fibre etc. this may vary so work it out yourself. This is how your bike should now look.

Next up is your air box and filter. There are 3 tubes you need to take off first then 7 screws hold the lid into place. These are the three tubes to remove,

Once off the next thing is to remove the tray which is held in by 4 more screws, also remove the tube going from the airbox tray to the rear cylinder valve cover, that’s the tube you didn’t remove the last time.

Once out you are now left like the picture below. Good work so far, you nearly have the carbs off. Remove the choke cable by loosening the screw arrowed and also unscrew your idle needle (I forgot about the idle needle before and snapped it, so you have been warned)

Next up is to loosed the clamps that are on the rubbers which joins the carbs to the engine. Only unscrew the top ones but not right out, keep the nut and bolt together and you don’t need the bottom ones off. The rear ones are easily seen and loosened, the one on the left hand side isn’t too hard either (if you find it hard to do the left hand side unscrew the coil with an 8mm ratchet and socket, this’ll make it easier to get at). If you think the left was hard to get at wait until you see the right hand side. It’s that hard to see I didn’t even try to get a picture, but you will need a flashlight and some patience. The picture below is from the left hand side. Only loosen the one arrowed.

Now that all the clamps are loose (not off) prise the carbs off gently. Once the carbs are out you now need to take off the throttle cables. 2 10mm spanners are needed. Loosen the top one first then take out the nipple from it’s housing, then the bottom one. Once this is done you will now have the carbs in your hands. Congratulations, now have a break.

The bike should now look like this, (put a few clothes in each of the holes so as not to get anything in the engine)

Now that you have the carbs off, don’t turn them upside-down or on their side, there is petrol in there. Next is to get at the needle. Remove the 4 screws holding the cover on and remember, if there are any clips on there put them back the way they should. Place your finger on the cover as you remove the last screw as there’s a spring in there, as shown below,

Now that the cover is off, take out the diaphragm, it’ll look like this. (Ignore the arrow, I'll replace this pic with one without it.)

Now that you have the diaphragm and piston assembly in your hand it’s time to take out the needle. Put star head screw-driver in and give it a quarter turn, that’s all that’s needed then push gently up on the needle. Be careful as there is another spring in there and also other small parts, don’t loose any. The following 2 pictures will explain all.

Now that you have the needle out it’s time to drill the slide. Open your nice new drill bit set (see below) and get the 2.5mm bit and drill the hole shown. Be extra careful here with the safety goggles etc.

That is the slides now drilled. Next up is fitting the extra 0.5mm washer (or as I did took the old washer out and fitted a 1mm washer instead). Pictured is the needle with the old washer off and the new 1mm to go on.

Once the washer is on put the needle back into the assembly followed by the locking mechanism (just the opposite of what you did to take it out and fit back into the carbs. Correctly align the diaphragm so that it sits where it should. Put the big spring in but don’t forget to give the cover a clean on the inside just for good measure before fitting. Make sure also that the cover is aligned correctly too. Where I have arrowed is how it should look, you must cover the little hole with the cover and mount all the little hangers in their correct place.

You are now almost finished. Repeat the previous steps 3 more times and the job is almost done. Once fitted with all 4 washers and slides drilled and the carbs back together it’s time to fit the carbs back on again. Pretty much the same as taking them off but can be a bit tricky the first time you do it (if you do it right the first time, well done, cuz I didn’t). Start by making sure the clamps on the rubber seals are loose enough to take the carbs, but not too loose that you push the clamps around every time you touch it with a screwdriver. First you will need to fit the throttle cables, then make sure the choke cable is gonna fit easily (might be a good idea to fit the idle screw too). Once that is done place the front of the carbs into the rubbers on the front head and when slotted in tighten up the clamps (don’t fit the rear yet). Once the clamps are tightened get 2 flathead screwdrivers (2 people would also be good here). Place the screwdrivers on the rubbers (and make sure the heads are clean) so that they act as a shoe-horn and push the rear of the carbs into place. See below.

Once the carbs have been fitted at the rear tighten up the last 2 clamps and that’s the hard work done. Now it’s time to fit the air-box, tank, inspection panels, seat and whatever else you took off. Once this is done take yourself out of the garage about stretch the bikes legs, and don’t forget to enjoy yourself and keep it ‘Black on Black’.

Author: Gareth (aka Viper Biker)

For follow-ups to this information please visit: http://www.400greybike.co.uk