Bodywork

Removing Plastic

Removing the fairing can be a quick and simple task, especially when you've done it 1000 times.

For the seat unit:

1. Remove the rear seat pad.
2. Undo two allen screws where the pod meets the tank.
3. Undo two allen screws hidden underneath the back of the front seat pad
   (which also release the front pad).
4. Disconnect the rear bulbs.
5. Pull the whole lot up and backwards.

For the fairing lowers:

1. Undo the 3 screws on the mid panels (only the rear-most on each side is
   actually a screw. The others are quick release fasteners (quarter turn skrews)
2. Remove the Black plastic lugs near the radiator.
3. The side panels should now swing out.
4. Undo the 4 allen screws holding the lower to the bike. It is easier to get
   the lower off if you undo the 3 posidrive screws that hold the plastic that
   funnels air to the radiator.

Brakes

Front Brakes

Rear Brakes

Final Drive

Final drive

Suspension Set-up and Adjustments

DISCLAIMER - This text is based on information found on the Internet. If you feel any of it is inaccurate, please contact me or Register and change it on the site. The whole purpose is to inform, not mislead. You are also reminded that this information, as all infromation on this site, is used at YOUR OWN RISK!

Introduction
This section will attempt to offer advise on how to best set up and adjust the suspension on your race bike. The whole purpose to setting up suspension properly is to maximise grip from the tyres, which ultimately leads to improved lap times. For this reason alone, your suspension will play its most important role during cornering, accelerating, and braking. Also, while in a straight line a well set up suspension will absorb bumps in the track without upsetting the stability of the bike.

Usually, the suspension won't use the entirety of its stroke, although on certain circuits it’s not unusual for the suspension to bottom out over a big bump or through a hollow. If your suspension does bottom out under these conditions, it doesn't necessarily follow the suspension should be set harder to compensate. However, if the suspension is bottoming out when maximum tyre grip is essential, for example apexing a fast corner, the tyre cannot offer its best grip because it is also acting as a spring, and adjustment will be necessary. Remember the golden rule... When tyres grip and lap times improve, the suspension has a harder job to do, so must be set harder. On the flip side of this rule, when it starts raining and tyre grip goes down, softer settings should be used.

Before Starting
Before starting to set up your suspension, it’s always a good idea to read the manuals. This way you'll best understand what adjusters have what effect on the suspension internals. Blindly fiddling adjusters will leave you with nothing but a bike that is all but impossible to ride effectively. Also, before starting to maximise your settings, the following should be checked:

1. Check chain alignment. If the drive chain is out of alignment sprocket wear will be accelerated, but more important you will lose power at the rear wheel!
2. Check proper tyre pressures and wheel balance. If tyre pressures are too low or too high, stability is compromised and tyre wear is accelerated.
3. Check steering head bearings are adjusted properly. Loose head bearings will compromise stability and give false feedback as to what the front end is doing.
4. Check front-end alignment, ensuring the fork geometry is correct. If your forks are out of alignment, they will compromise stability, giving false feedback as to what they are doing, and also have an adverse effect during turning-in and cornering.
5. Check proper frame geometry. Similar to front-end misalignment, only more so.

Suspension Hardware

Once you are happy all the above is okay, you should now consider your current suspension hardware. Most bike manufacturers fit suspension components that are more than sufficient for the road, but unfortunately, they just won’t be good enough for race use. Also, they fit a “one size fits all” set of components. At the very least, you should consider replacing the springs in the forks. Springs are graded by weight, and when buying replacements, normally you would tell the supplier of your kitted weight, i.e. how much you weigh with your leathers and helmet on, and they will supply you with a spring to suit. When buying replacement springs, make sure you get “linear” rather than “progressive” ones also.

Similarly, the rear shock absorber would be replaced using the same guideline. Most, if not all, aftermarket shocks have compression damping, which give you better control of the whole suspension stroke. Older shocks fitted as standard on the NC30/35s, ZXRs, FZRs, etc. only allow for rebound damping. One last consideration when buying a replacement rear shock should be ride height adjustment. It is highly recommended you buy a shock with this adjustment.

Now you have decided on the suspension hardware you are going to use, it’s time to start considering how best to utilise it.

First off, you should set up the static sag, both front and rear. To do this is fairly simple. You should aiming to set the sags as below:

Bike Class	Front Sag	Rear Sag
Superbike	20-30 millimetres	5-10 millimetres
Supersport 400/600	20-30 millimetres	5-10 millimetres
Race Rep 250	15-25 millimetres	0-5 millimetres
Race Rep 125	15-25 millimetres	Just topping out - 0 millimetres

Note - The RR125 class of bike cannot afford to lose the momentum that the rear sag would give in a straight line.

Setting Front Sag
To set the front sag, make sure the bike is held upright on a flat surface. Before making any adjustments and measurements, it’s a good idea to let off any rebound damping and compression damping (if available). First off you should lift the front wheel clean off the ground, allowing the forks to fully extend. This is best achieved by using a paddock stand which lifts the bike at the headstock. Next, using a cable tie or similar, wrap this around the fork stanchion (i.e. the silver chromed bit, NOT the outer fork leg) and push it all the way down the stanchion so it rests against the fork leg dust seal. Next, gently let the front wheel back down and let the front settle. You shouldn’t bounce the forks or put any extra weight on the bike at this point. The idea is to let the weight of the bike and nothing more compress the forks. Now you need to lift the front wheel again clean off the floor. As the weight comes off the front, the cable tie will remain in place and the fork leg will extend again. This lets you measure the distance between the cable tie and the dust seal. If the recorded distance falls between the readings in the above table, its fair to assume the sag is close to what you are looking for. If you find the reading is less than the minimum value stated, then the preload on the spring is too much, and should be let off. Similarly, if the reading is more than the maximum value stated, the spring preload is too little and should be increased accordingly.

Adjustment of the spring preload is carried out by using adjuster on the top of the fork. Just as a note of caution, always adjust both forks at the same time and by the same amounts! One full turn clockwise will increase preload, hence reducing sag, by approximately 3 millimetres*, and vice versa when turned anti-clockwise.

Finally, I’ll point out that it is worth carrying out the measurement a number of times to take into account small errors which can be made when letting the weight down on the front wheel again. Don’t settle for one reading – check it and check it again until you get some consistency from a number of readings.
Note - 3 millimetres is the rate at which one full turn adjusts the sag on the Honda NC30. Different manufacturers may use different ratios.

Setting Rear Sag
Once you’re done with the front sag, you should move onto the rear sag. The set-up procedure is very similar to the front, but you will need to call on assistance. Alternatively, a workshop stand, which facilitates lifting the rear wheel clear of the ground, should be sourced. Again, to set the sag on the rear shock, the shock has to be fully extended with no weight at all on it.
Before starting, identify a suitable position on the subframe of the bike and on the rear spindle, onto which you should make two reference marks. Ideally, these two points should be a close to the vertical as possible. Have your assistant lift the rear end of the bike until the rear wheel is clear of the ground, ensuring no weight is on the shock, thus letting it fully extend. Now you should measure the distance between your two reference points. Next, let the weight of the bike come down gently onto the rear wheel. Measure again the distance between your two reference points. The difference found is your rear static sag. If the recorded distance falls between the readings in the above table, its fair to assume the sag is close to what you are looking for. If you find the reading is less than the minimum value stated, then the preload on the spring is too much, and should be let off. Similarly, if the reading is more than the maximum value stated, the spring preload is too little and should be increased accordingly.

Adjustment of the spring preload is usually by either a castellated nut and locknut or by a series of stepped indents on an adjusting ring. Irrespective of the adjuster fitted, to increase the preload you will turn the adjuster clockwise, and vice versa to decrease the preload. The castellated nuts appear to be more common on aftermarket shocks as they allow for a greater degree of accuracy when setting preloads. Again, once you have adjusted and set the preload it is worth checking the measurements a couple times just to ensure you find consistent readings.

If after setting the front and rear sags, you find that no amount of preload adjustment can let you find a setting within the required ranges, chances are the springs or shock fitted are totally wrong for your bike. At this point, you’ll need to change them.

Static Sag with Rider
Once you are happy you have the static sags set up accurately, you should now consider checking the sags while you are sat of the bike. Put simply, this involves checking the suspension travel found while sat on the bike fully kitted and in the crouched position/riding position. There are no hard and fast measurements to be taken here, but as a rule you should find the travel is approximately one third of the total travel available. If you find this is close, it’s a good indication the springs fitted to the forks and the shock are a good match to our weight, and fine adjustment of rebound and compression damping should be more productive.

Finally, it should be noted the ride height is altered when adjustments to spring preloads are made. Ride height affects the geometry of the steering angle, or rake angle, of the front forks. This in turn affects the speed at which the bike will turn in to corners. There are a number of ways in which the ride height can be restored after preload adjustments, for example a jack up kit, or raising or lowering the front forks through the triple clamps. These methods may have the detrimental effect of lowering available ground clearance, so the preferred method is to use the ride height adjuster on your aftermarket rear shock.

One other advantage to this is to aim towards bettering the rake angle. Most bikes, such as the NC30 or the ZXR, have a quite conservative rake angle of 24.5 degrees or so. Thoroughbred race bikes, such as the RC45 or the Ducati 916/996 family have a far more aggressive 23.5 degrees. Again, through the use of ride height adjustment, you can aim towards this more aggressive rake angle without compromising stability but gaining quicker turning in characteristics.

Cause and Effects
Unfortunately, this is as much as I can offer with regards to searching for the perfect set-up, as tuning suspension is wholly dependant on a number of factors including rider style and preference. To this end, I will now describe what you can expect to feel on the track, and how to go about “dialling it out”.

Spring Rates
Front Springs too hard -

• Will be good under braking

• Creates Understeer

• Will give harsh feedback

Front Springs too soft -

• Will dive heavily under braking

• Creates Oversteer

• Allows for easy turning-in into corners

• Can lead to front tucking under while cornering

Rear Spring too hard -

• Allows for easy turning into corners

• Will give harsh feedback

• Creates poor rear wheel traction

Rear Spring too soft -

• Creates good traction under acceleration

• Creates Understeer

• Makes bike difficult to “flick” from side to side in chicanes

• Creates a light feeling on the front end

Rebound Damping - controls the rate at which the springs are allowed to return to their normally extended state after compression.
Front Suspension too much Rebound Damping

• Creates Oversteer

• Creates poor grip by the front tyre

• Can lead to front tucking under while cornering

Front Suspension too little Rebound Damping

• Creates Understeer

• Creates a light feeling at the front end

Rear Suspension too much Rebound Damping

• The rear tyre “jumps” on bumps, rather than following the surface of the track

• The rear tyre “jitters” under braking

• Creates Understeer

• Can cause overheating of the shock hydraulic system, causing fade, leading to loss of damping when hot

Rear Suspension too little Rebound Damping

• The rear tops out too fast under braking, causing the rear tyre to jump

• The whole bike feels unstable

Compression Damping - controls the rate at which the springs are allowed to compress during compression.
Front Suspension too much Compression Damping

• Good results under heavy braking

• Harsh feeling over bumps

Front Suspension too little Compression Damping

• Strong diving at the front under braking

• Front end feels soft and vague, similar to too little rebound damping

Rear Suspension too much Compression Damping

• Loss of traction causing rear wheel to slide under acceleration

• Harsh feeling over bumps

Rear Suspension too little Compression Damping

• Rear wheel will start to bump out under acceleration out of corners

• Rear end will squat too much, causing a loss of grip at the front wheel

As not all bikes have compression damping on the front forks, a certain amount of compression damping can be gained by adjusting the fork oil levels. Modern cartridge-type front forks can be reactive to adjustments in the oil levels, but it should be noted the greatest damping effects tend to occur towards the end of the stroke.

When the oil level is raised, the air spring in the latter stages of travel is stronger, thus the forks are harder. Similarly, when the level is lowered, the air spring effect is lessened and the forks are softer.

 

 

Cheap, Simple and Safe Home Made Battery Charger Project

I believe there are no mistakes in the schematic, various other people with electronic circuit design skills have looked at it without any criticism to its safety. It has been designed to be safe for leaving a battery connected to it indefinitely, safe electrically, and designed not to stress any of the components.

DISCLAIMER: I designed this cos i wanted a decent charger quickly, I'm sharing it for the purpose of sharing informtation. This info comes without any warranty. Its not a guide, if you build its entirely at your own risk. Seek professional advice etc. Electricity is dangerous, sparks are dangerous, petrol is dangerous.
===============

This is meant to be a cheap, quick, easy charger for topping the battery up at night and safe for leaving the battery hooked up to it after the battery is fully charged. It can be used on wet or gel cell 12V lead acid batteries.
Unlike some cheap chargers which apparently float batteries at 14.4 or even 15V once they are fully charged. (Very bad for lead acid batteries)

The LM317T is a great chip, its got short circuit protection and thermal protection. Hopefully these features wont ever be "needed" :)

Pointers:

* Its best to keep the AC cable long (as needed) and the DC cable (output of charger) as short as possible (basically reach from the floor to the bike's battery and a bit extra) This is to minimize the wire's resistance which acts to decrease charging voltage and current.

* I power up the charger, connect the negative terminal to the chassis where the battery bolts to it, then blow on the positive terminal as I hook up the positive crocodile clip.
Then give both clips a little wiggle to ensure they are firmly attached and making a good electrical connection. The reason I blow on the positive is to ensure there aren't a bunch of petrol vapours lurking around it. Spark plus petrol = ignition. Its just a precaution. Prevention is better than cure :) Just like keeping your battery charged.

* When batteries are in a state of discharge (Below 100%) they slowly self destruct, the rate depends how dead they are. Lead acid batteries can last many years.

* A charging connector mounted on the bike presents a convenient option which would likely provide a more solid electrical connection with lower resistance.

*The charger is designed to handle a short circuit, and the amount of power it puts out is limited to about 4W.
A big metal frame can dissipate 4W with ease. On the other hand, using a high current battery charger, a lot more heat could be generated by a short circuit.

Enjoy! Lope

Digi Dash - Koso RX1N Installation

WIRING INSTRUCTIONS: Koso RX1N

Wiring up the rx1n is dead easy to do, and no modding to any current loom is needed, just splicing in some wires using the supplied "crunch" splices. Some soldering may be required for a couple of wires (power) as the loom took the supply off is too far away.

POWER WIRES.
Ok, never seen an nc35 wiring diagram, but for the nc30 this is where i took power from. On the riders right hand side of the bike, just above the dipstick, are a few plugs.

One of the plugs has 3 wires in it. This will lead from this plug up to the ignition barrel with a red, red/black and a blue/orange wires.

Splice in the rx1n red with the bikes red wire on near this plug.(Permanent 12v) splice the rx1n brown (not brown with bullet connector) into red/black (ignition)
Now, while on this side, somewhere on the frame, find a good clean point to attach the rx1n black wire to. (negative) MAKE SURE ITS A GOOD CONNECTION!! this will also determine sensor values, as the unit uses a common single earth for all parts.

SPEED SENSOR
For the speed, either take it off the front or rear wheel, however you can mount it good, just read the instructions.

RPM
On the nc30, I took the supplied wire with a connector to go inline with the 12v source to a coil, just use the wire and connect in between one coil point (front is easier)

TEMPERATURE
The supplied temperature sensors (2 of them) are 1/8 npt or pt (bad engrish manual) thread size, and screws sraight into the oem hole for the oem temp guage. Cant use the oem sensor, so just unscrew (located very close to power plug as above) it and replace with one of the new ones. Using the supplied plugable wire, connect up to the rx1ns loom and done.

You can use the 2nd one to read oil temp, and has provisions in the dash to show oil and water temps at once. (i am tapping my sump plug when i get new one from shop)

INDICATORS
all you need to do here, is splice one of the 2 wires heading out to your indicators. Blue on rx1n to the left indicator wire on bike, and orange on rx1n to right wire on bike. (coincidentally on the bike out to indicator are blue and orange!)

OIL PRESSURE
For oil pressure, this needs to be connected to the negative side of the wire to be correct, or it will show opposite to what it should. On the plug that went to the speedo unit, before the plug pull back some tape and find the blue/red stripe wire, and splice the grey rx1n wire into it.

NEUTRAL
Neutral is the same as oil pressure needing a negative to function properly. splice the rx1n white wire to the light blue/red wire, at same point on plug as oil pressure

HIGH BEAM
splice the highbeam light wire, rx1n yellow, at the same point as oil pressure and neutral on the blue wire.

BEFORE
ATTEMPTING THIS INSTALLATION, DOWNLOAD A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR YOUR SPECIFIC NC30 OR DIFFERENT BIKE, AND USING A MULTIMETER (EVEN WITH SAME COLOUR WIRES AS MENTIONED) MAKE SURE THE +/- IS WHAT IS REQUIRED, AS 12V ON A NEG WIRE CAN HURT THE UNIT.....

 

Courtesy of mojododo(400GB Forums)

Is my battery any good?

The battery fitted to the NC30 and NC35 as standard are what's known as SLA (sealed lead-acid) and are designed to be maintenance-free in use. An SLA battery has a self-discharge characteristic of 1 percent per 24 hours (Note - the self-discharge in a Gel MF battery is 0.1 percent per day). In other words, the battery will go from a fully charged to discharged state in 80 days. You should never discharge a battery past 80 percent (60 percent for Gel MF) hence the 80 days, and not 100 days as your simple arithmetic would suggest.

If you're likely to have the bike laid up for long periods, over the winter for instance, its best to charge the battery intermittently. I'd recommend every 60 days maximum put the battery on a suitably designed motorcycle charger (Optimate or similar) and let it run through its cycle.

To check the general condition of the battery, make sure its fully charged then disconnect it from the charger and any possible load and let it rest for 30-45 minutes. Measure the voltage at the terminals using a suitable DVM. If you get less than 12.7 volts DC, the battery is not as healthy as it could be and it is time to consider replacing it. If you get less than 12.3 volts DC, it's definitely time to replace it. Also, if the battery is more than three years old, likewise replace it.

Incidently, you can do a rough and ready check of your regulator/rectifier in a similar manner. With the battery properly connected on the bike, start the engine, increase rpm to 5,000 and check the DC voltage at the terminals - you should get approximately 15.5 volts DC. Any more and you may have a regulator problem. Similarly, you can check for AC voltage at the terminals. If you get any AC voltage at all your rectifier is beginning to fail (and killing your battery while its failing - double jeopardy!). The rectifiers used are known as full-wave rectifiers, and any AC reading at all is a bad sign.

Specifications

Battery:

• Capacity - 12V, 6Ah
• Voltage
  • Fully Charged - 13 to 13.2V
  • Uncharged - below 12.3V
• Charging rate
  • Normal - 0.7A for 5 to 10hrs
  • Quick - 3.0A for 1hr
• Current leakage - mA (max)

Alternator:

• Stator coil resistence - 0.1 to 1.0ohms 

Regulator/Rectifier:

• Regulated voltage output - 13.5 to 15.5V@5000rpm
• Regulated current output - 0 to 6A@5000rpm

Starter motor:

• Bush length
  • Standard - 12.0 to 13.0mm
  • Recommended Service limit - 6.5mm 

Fuses:

• VFR
  • Main - 30A
  • Others - 10A x 3, 20A x 1

• RVF
  • Main - 30A
  • Others - 10A x 3, 15A x 1 

 

 

Wiring Diagrams

Wiring Diagrams

Clutch and Pressure Plate Cross Reference

The NC30 ad NC35 came ou with different clutch part numbers for the different models. The result is, the clutches will fit but may not work properly because they are in fact quite different in stack thickness as you will see in the tables below. The incorrect clutch stack thickness will cause either a stiff clutch or a slipping clutch.

There are three different stackups Honda used, one for the '89 NC30 (date code K), for the '90-'93 NC30 (date codes L and N), and for the NC35 (all years). There was another stackup used for the very early K model bikes, but that only affected the first 100 or so bikes made, and it is not covered here. If you have an early serial number NC30, then refer to the original parts manual to verify that you are getting the correct parts.
Here is a summary of the plates used for each bike. See the second table below for more specific details and some cross referenced parts available in the USA.

Bike Model	Fiber Plate Thickness	Fiber Plate Quantity	Metal Plate Thickness	Metal Plate Quantity
NC30 - K	? 2.94 mm	8 2	1.58 mm	9
NC30 - L, N	3.06 mm	10	1.58 mm	9
NC35 - all	3.06 mm	9	1.98 mm	8

Note the NC30 L and N, and NC35 all use the same fiber plates (3.06 mm). The NC35, however, uses a thicker metal plate (1.98 mm for NC35 vs. 1.58mm for the NC30 - all years).

The NC30 K model bike used 8 fiber plates of one thickness and 2 of another. I don't have the thickness of the 8 fiber plates because I don't have an example I can measure, but the 22201-166-000 fiber plate (qty 2) has been superceeded by Honda with the VTR250 plate, part number 22201-GF6-000. I measured the VTR250 plate as 2.94 mm, so I assume the VTR plate is a similar thickness. I don't have any details (other than part number) on the other fiber plate (qty 8) used for the K model NC30, the 22201-MLO-781, so I don't know the plate's thickness.
For my NC30 (model L and N), I have used Barrnet HP62-16 metal plates, and I have used Honda VTR250 fiber plates, all of which are easily obtained in the US. But, this was the wrong stackup. More recently, I started using the original Honda fiber plate for the NC30-L,N because of the slight thickness difference between the VTR plate and the NC30 plate. For street use, the thickness probably doesn't matter, but for the race track, the slightly thinner VTR250 plate doesn't offer as good of a clutch feel for launches at the starting line.
The table below summarizes the different plates, what they are used for, quantities, and plate thicknesses. (Update Dec 17, 2006: I had the quantities wrong for the NC35 clutch plates - this has been updated.)

Manufacturer	Part Number	Type	Usage	Thickness	Notes
Honda	22201-MR8-000	Fiber	NC30-L,N - qty 10 NC35 - qty 9	3.06 mm	'90-'93 VFR and RVF use this plate.
Honda	22201-MLO-781	Fiber	NC30-K - qty 8		'89 VFR uses this plate
Honda	22201-166-000	Fiber	NC30-K - qty 2		'89 VFR uses this pate
Honda	22201-GF6-000	Fiber	VTR250	2.94 mm
Honda	22321-KE8-000	Metal	NC30-K,L,N - qty 9	1.58 mm	All VFR use this plate
Honda	22321-KE7-000	Metal	NC35 - qty 8	1.98 mm	All RVF use this plate
Barrnet	HP62-16	Metal	NC30-K,L,N - qty 9	1.58 mm	Barrrnet plate for all VFR
	NC30 Date Codes
	K = '89
	L = '90-'91
	N = '92-'93"

 

This information was found on http://www.akhara.com/nc30/index.html

Airbox Modification

 
The image above shows the Honda RVF 400 airbox with the foam.

 

 The image below shows the airbox without the foam to allow unrestricted airflow.

 

Aprillia RS 250 rear shock modification

Aprilia RS250 SACHS SHOCK MOD

WHICH SHOCK?


Try to get one with an adjustable ride height. Find one no later than 1998-99. Not sure myself, since I picked one up from an RS250 Cup bike.
From what I've been told, all the Cup bikes came with adjustable ride height.

Here's the earlier model RS250 shock.
This one does not have a ride height adjuster and according to RichNZ is better made and easier to rebuild than the later model.

FITTING?


Grind 1.5mm on each side of the NC30's triangle linkage where the bottom of the shock mounts since the RS's mounting linkage is narrower than the NC30s. If you have the earlier model RS shock, the top of shock needs to be shaved a bit to clear the frame.

This is what it will look like after you mod the linkage.



SPRING?
A stock RS250 spring is 325lbs. A stock NC30 is little more than double the RS spring; hence, you will need to ditch the RS’s spring. You can easily get the spring off the RS shock, but you'll need spring compressors to take the spring off the NC shock. You could also buy a new spring to suit your weight. Those who change out their spring go heavier like 850-900lbs. I always thought the stock NC30 shock was undersprung.... or maybe I am oversprung

I went with a 900lbs Ohlins spring and had the unit rebuilt and revalved.



RECHARGE?
Before you recharge, you should test fit the unit on your bike! First release the current charge by depressing the valve located on the remote reservoir (similar to a tire valve) till all the pressure is released.
Now crack the lines open just a bit so you can re-adjust them similar to how the original stock shock was mounted with the reservoir (granted your NC30 came with the remote). Do this before you recharge the shock to 180PSI!

DIRECTIONS for adjusting the ride height type shock.



Seems like the optimal height adjustment is 8mm.



Once completed it will look something like this.

Author: eddiehrcrider

To get follow-up information about this please visit: http://www.400greybike.co.uk/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=27709

 

 

 

Crash bung fitment - Non drill type

Firstly, check that you have everything in the kit…

Mine was missing the diagram…..But I managed without it!

You should have:

2 Pucks
2 Puck Mounts
1 Spacer
2 Puck Bolts, 1 long, one short
2 Bracket Bolts, with washers
2 Brackets
1 Through Bar

Next thing to do is to remove your upper, and lower fairings…

At the front of the engine, you should be able to see the oil cooler mounts, just under where the front header pipes bolt on to the engine. They are made of aluminium, and are probably covered in white oxidisation and road crud.

The threads in these need to be cleaned before you’ll be able to screw the bolts in. As Dave G has mentioned, the easiest way to do this (If you haven’t got a Metric Fine Tread Tap handy) is to cut slots in the bolts that came with the kit. This can be done with a dremmel, or, as I did, with a hacksaw.

You then need to wind the bolts in, a little at a time, and then wind them out, clean out the crud, and wind them back in again, keep repeating this until the threads are clean, and the bolts can be screwed all the way in.

Next, Insert the left hand side bracket as shown in the picture, and insert the bolt.

This is where I differ from the instructions provided from R&G. I found this easier as access to the space between the 2 brackets is limited…..

From the Right hand side of the bike, insert the long stainless steel through bar, and attach it to the left hand bracket, do this bolt up finger tight. This will hold the bar in place while you install the right hand bracket, and fairing. I found that if you install both brackets, then the bar cannot be lifted in to the correct position as there are radiators and header pipes in the way!

Then, on the right hand side of the bike, fit the brackets as detailed above.

Now fit the right hand fairing.

And screw in the puck mount, Note, the right hand side does not need the spacer, and uses the shorter bolt.

Tighten this bolt up finger tight, Next, remove the puck mount on the left hand side of the bike, The puck mount on the right hand side should now hold the through bar in position.

Install the left hand fairing

And then attach the puck mount, using the longer bolt and spacer.

The 2 puck mount bolts can now be tightening up.

All that’s left now is to finish installing the fairings, and screw in the pucks themselves, then stand back and admire your handiwork while having a beer…..!

 

The Author: Viffer106 on 400greybike where you can find follow ups to this:

http://www.400greybike.co.uk/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=42120&whichpage=1

Deristriction

Deristriction

In standard trim an NC35 is
restricted to 180 kph :-(
The restriction is controlled by a sensor in the
speedo. This can be removed fairly easily, and there is no need to spend 50 odd
quid on a "black box" :-)

• First remove the speedo assembly - two 8mm bolts, speedo cable and two
  connector blocks.
• Remove the cover from the speedo - Lots of black posidrive screws plus the
  odometer knob. This is held in place by a tiny posidrive screw in the end.
• Remove the speedo unit - undo 4 silver posidrive screws at the rear of the
  assembly.
• You should now be able to see the sensor. It is a cam shaped disc attached
  to the speedo drive, which makes contact with a metal strip (connected to one
  of the two wires that come in through the back of the speedo) at the magic 180
  kph. All you need to do is bend back the strip so it NEVER makes contact with
  the disc and voila: the bike is derestricted.

You will also see
that the two wires entering the speedo are connected together by a resistor.
This is just to tell the bikes electrics if the sensor has been disconnected,
and if it is not in the circuit causes the bike to misfire above 5500
rpm.

Disclaimer: If you knacker your speedo whilst doing this
don't blame me coz I accept no responsibility for anything at all. Also the same
applies if you get done testing that the derestriction works on public roads.

Extra Washer and Drilled Slides

Start by removing the rear seat unit by removing the 3 screws arrowed below and the same for the other side,

Once you have removed the screws take the pillion seat off and you will see that the seat has 2 plugs at the rear which push into the subframe. Lift the seat from the rear to take the plugs out of these holes. Next remove the brake lights by twisting them anti-clockwise. Once this is done the seat will slide off. You should be left like this,

Next you need to remove that tank. The tank is held in with only 1 screw, shown here,

Before you remove the vacuum and fuel line turn off the fuel tap (I’ll take it for granted you know where this is, we’ve all ran onto reserve before). These are next to remove and are found here (sorry about the picture quality). Also remove the breather line too, that goes into the wee silver thing on your tank, take out the tube.

Now remove the tank by lifting it from the rear and slide the front out. Good. Next is 2 more bodywork panels, left side and right. Depending on your fairing type wether original, fibre-glass carbon-fibre etc. this may vary so work it out yourself. This is how your bike should now look.

Next up is your air box and filter. There are 3 tubes you need to take off first then 7 screws hold the lid into place. These are the three tubes to remove,

Once off the next thing is to remove the tray which is held in by 4 more screws, also remove the tube going from the airbox tray to the rear cylinder valve cover, that’s the tube you didn’t remove the last time.

Once out you are now left like the picture below. Good work so far, you nearly have the carbs off. Remove the choke cable by loosening the screw arrowed and also unscrew your idle needle (I forgot about the idle needle before and snapped it, so you have been warned)

Next up is to loosed the clamps that are on the rubbers which joins the carbs to the engine. Only unscrew the top ones but not right out, keep the nut and bolt together and you don’t need the bottom ones off. The rear ones are easily seen and loosened, the one on the left hand side isn’t too hard either (if you find it hard to do the left hand side unscrew the coil with an 8mm ratchet and socket, this’ll make it easier to get at). If you think the left was hard to get at wait until you see the right hand side. It’s that hard to see I didn’t even try to get a picture, but you will need a flashlight and some patience. The picture below is from the left hand side. Only loosen the one arrowed.

Now that all the clamps are loose (not off) prise the carbs off gently. Once the carbs are out you now need to take off the throttle cables. 2 10mm spanners are needed. Loosen the top one first then take out the nipple from it’s housing, then the bottom one. Once this is done you will now have the carbs in your hands. Congratulations, now have a break.

The bike should now look like this, (put a few clothes in each of the holes so as not to get anything in the engine)

Now that you have the carbs off, don’t turn them upside-down or on their side, there is petrol in there. Next is to get at the needle. Remove the 4 screws holding the cover on and remember, if there are any clips on there put them back the way they should. Place your finger on the cover as you remove the last screw as there’s a spring in there, as shown below,

Now that the cover is off, take out the diaphragm, it’ll look like this. (Ignore the arrow, I'll replace this pic with one without it.)

Now that you have the diaphragm and piston assembly in your hand it’s time to take out the needle. Put star head screw-driver in and give it a quarter turn, that’s all that’s needed then push gently up on the needle. Be careful as there is another spring in there and also other small parts, don’t loose any. The following 2 pictures will explain all.

Now that you have the needle out it’s time to drill the slide. Open your nice new drill bit set (see below) and get the 2.5mm bit and drill the hole shown. Be extra careful here with the safety goggles etc.

That is the slides now drilled. Next up is fitting the extra 0.5mm washer (or as I did took the old washer out and fitted a 1mm washer instead). Pictured is the needle with the old washer off and the new 1mm to go on.

Once the washer is on put the needle back into the assembly followed by the locking mechanism (just the opposite of what you did to take it out and fit back into the carbs. Correctly align the diaphragm so that it sits where it should. Put the big spring in but don’t forget to give the cover a clean on the inside just for good measure before fitting. Make sure also that the cover is aligned correctly too. Where I have arrowed is how it should look, you must cover the little hole with the cover and mount all the little hangers in their correct place.

You are now almost finished. Repeat the previous steps 3 more times and the job is almost done. Once fitted with all 4 washers and slides drilled and the carbs back together it’s time to fit the carbs back on again. Pretty much the same as taking them off but can be a bit tricky the first time you do it (if you do it right the first time, well done, cuz I didn’t). Start by making sure the clamps on the rubber seals are loose enough to take the carbs, but not too loose that you push the clamps around every time you touch it with a screwdriver. First you will need to fit the throttle cables, then make sure the choke cable is gonna fit easily (might be a good idea to fit the idle screw too). Once that is done place the front of the carbs into the rubbers on the front head and when slotted in tighten up the clamps (don’t fit the rear yet). Once the clamps are tightened get 2 flathead screwdrivers (2 people would also be good here). Place the screwdrivers on the rubbers (and make sure the heads are clean) so that they act as a shoe-horn and push the rear of the carbs into place. See below.

Once the carbs have been fitted at the rear tighten up the last 2 clamps and that’s the hard work done. Now it’s time to fit the air-box, tank, inspection panels, seat and whatever else you took off. Once this is done take yourself out of the garage about stretch the bikes legs, and don’t forget to enjoy yourself and keep it ‘Black on Black’.

Author: Gareth (aka Viper Biker)

For follow-ups to this information please visit: http://www.400greybike.co.uk

 

Checking Valve Clearances

DISCLAIMER
: Any of the words written or actions taken in the following post are not endorsed by 400Greybike and are the personal writings of myself. If you undertake any of the following processes you are responsible for your own actions, neither 400GB or myself will assume any responsibility. If you are not happy to undertake any of these actions please have a professional perform this task. Thanks you.

OK, so, as requested I have started on my write-up on how to check the shims, or valve
clearences on the NC30. First of all, let me say, it is not hard and is definately nothing to be afraid to do. This will also save you a few £100 now that you won't have to go to a mechanic to get it done. Before I start I want to put my thanks out there first before I forget. Thanks Rhory (castroljc) and Stu (Bunter) for having a laugh last night when we had our first attempt on one of Rhory's many NC engines but it all worked out fine, and also a big thanks to Rick Oliver for upplying the guide on how to do it.

Firstly this is what you'll need,
- Ratchet with a 10mm, 14mm and 17mm socket,
- Feeler gauge that can measure between 0.12mm-0.18mm and 0.21mm-0.27mm
- And possibly a flat headed screwdriver to carefully help you separate the cylinder head from the block.

OK, so you will need to strip pretty much all of the bike (this is where the dealer gets you in labour costs). So,
- Bodywork off
- Tank, airbox, carbs out
- Top radiator off (or dropped to allow you access to the front head)

(If you don't know how to do any of the above please consult the Haynes manual)

Your bike should now look like this (pic is from an '89 NC30 I re-built last year )

Now for the fun stuff. First of all remove the 4 bolts that holds the head in place. They are 10mm hex head screws,

 

Once removed carefully use a flat head screw driver to prise off the cam cover. Once off it will now look like this,

 

Looks scary don't it. Don't be scared, if you're lucky you'll not need to replace any of the shims. Next up is to remove the Timing Hole Cap. A 17mm socket will sort that out to allow you access to the Timing nut adjuster thingy (a very technical term, 'I will not buy this record, it
is scratched' )

Next up you'll need the 14mm socket to turn the engine over.

Turn until you get both of these marks lined up. T1 and the mark on the casing, and the other 2 lines to match on the top of the cam shaft.

And

The hard work is behind you now. Next up is to check the gap between the
shim and the camshaft (the long rod that has egg shaped things on it) When the lines are the same as the above pics you are then free to check the gap on cylinder no. 1 (rear left when sitting on the bike).

There are 4 valves/shims per cylinder (and there are 4 cylinders making the bike, yes you guessed it, 16 valve ) that need checking now. The front 2 are known as inlet valves and the rear 2 are exhaust valves. The tolerance for all the inlet valves
on the bike are 0.12mm-0.18mm so take out your feeler gauge and check it now. If it is within tolerance a gauge should fit in like so.

And the rear should be between 0.21mm-0.27mm and should fit like so,

Once you know what the gap is please use the following page to write it down for future reference.

Once you have Cylinder no. 1's gap it's then time to do cyliner no. 3 (this is the one to the right of no. 1. Turn the Timing nut again until you get back to T1 again and the cam shaft will now line up in the opposite way to the way it did on cylinder no. 1.

Once you are at this stage you can then start to check the clearance on cylinder no. 3. Again the front 2 are the inlet valves and the rear are exhaust valves and the tolerances are still 0.12mm-0.18mm on the inlet valves and 0.21-mm-0.27mm on the exhaust valves.
The following pics look the same as the ones above but believe me, thay are from cylinder no. 3. If you look really close you'll notice that.

Inlet valves

Exhaust valves

 

Courtesy of Viperbiker(400GB Forums)

 

Maintenance Schedule

1000km Service
6000km
12000km
18000km
24000km
36000km
Non-Scheduled